Scotland, Part 1: The Borders – Kelso, Melrose, and Edinburgh
/After exploring Yorkshire, England, we drove up the eastern coast and crossed over into Scotland at Carter Bar. What an awesome panorama! The border itself runs along a ridge, offering long-ranging views of the hilly Southern Uplands region.
We pulled into Kelso just as the sun set spectacularly over the confluence of the rivers Tweed and Teviot. Our accommodations impressed as well: Duncan House, a well-appointed B&B popular with travelers exploring the Borders, is far posher than its price might suggest. The parlor and dining room were furnished with antiques equally beautiful and comfortable, and the view from my room could not have been more postcard picturesque.
Kelso further won me over when I wandered through the small town's center and landed at The Cobbles for dinner. A decade ago, this vegetarian often subsisted on the "chips" half of the typical pub dish. While I do love a good French fry, I'm happy to report that pub — or now, more fancily, gastropub — fare has evolved into a veggie-friendly realm. Not to mention the very tasty craft beer they serve, brewed by the Cobbles's former head chef at Tempest Brewing Company in nearby Galashiels.
En route from Kelso to Edinburgh, we visited the magnificent ruins of Melrose Abbey — a famous Cistercian monastery that was established in 1136.
We lucked out with a fantastic, blue-sky day in Edinburgh, so we climbed Arthur's Seat and enjoyed the 360-degree view of town, the River Forth, and the North Sea.
That evening, after walking the Royal Mile at sunset, we made an obligatory stop at my favorite Scottish cocktail bar, Bramble — where my favorite Scottish mixologist, Matty, served up some phenomenal concoctions.
Dinner — and dessert! — at the quirky and delicious restaurant The Dogs brought the ideal Edinburgh day to a close.
Looking to balance out the glitz and glamor of the Côte d'Azur? Join me for a short stroll on the Cap Dramont, a coastal section of the stunningly red Massif de l'Esterel of Southeast France.